Wine Spectator
Magazine interviewed Sommelier Chris Miller in the December 15th issue, “Sprucing
up the Spago Cellar”. When asked what he was drinking now,
one of Chris’ replies was: “Palmina [in Santa Barbara
County] makes incredible wines, probably the best in the world
with Italian varieties outside Italy. So many sommeliers are (rightly)
skeptical when it comes to New World producers trying their hand
at Italy, but this is the exception. I've sat in on many blind
tastings of Palmina versus Italy, with consumers and sommeliers,
and I have yet to see one person regularly pick out which one is
Palmina and which is Italy. And that's with the crowd knowing that
both are involved in the flight, and Palmina going up against both
modern and traditional producers. Steve Clifton is a genius.”
As the vineyards Steve Clifton sources for his fruit mature, he
believes he'll soon be able "to really see what the potential
is to make wines with an Italian sensibility with California fruit." It's
a curiosity that with the varied climates available in the Golden
State, not to mention its long, deep history of Italian immigrants,
so few outstanding wines have been made from Italian varieties
here. As has been noted in these pages over the years, Palmina
is likely doing the best job of anyone in the state right now.
Clifton told me that his winemaking has settled into a groove but
that he still tinkers and adjusts, "especially with the whites
right now." That's especially evident with his two tocai bottlings,
which show the potential for that grape to make wines that are
either racy or dense. The recent set of red wines here was impressive
up and down the line and I was especially taken by the "little
wines" from '09, which offer exuberant fruit and noteworthy
complexity.
2009 Palmina Lumina Sparkling Nebbiolo Sisquoc
Vineyard Santa Maria Valley
Bright orange-pink. A complex,
spice-accented bouquet evokes dried pear, blood orange, rhubarb,
anise and musky herbs, plus
a hint of white pepper. Refreshingly bitter and precise, with very
good depth to its red fruit flavors; a floral quality emerges with
air. Finishes brisk and dry, with very good clarity and length.
Fascinating stuff, and sure to be very flexible at the table. 92
2010
Palmina Pinot Grigio Santa Barbara County
(picked at a very
low 19.8 degrees Brix; 12% alcohol): Bright yellow with a hint
of pink. Highly aromatic bouquet of nectarine,
orange and lemon rind, complemented by notes of anise and ginger.
Tangy citrus and poached pear flavors gain flesh and weight with
air and pick up a candied floral quality. Finishes firm and long,
with lingering spiciness and resonating floral notes. Shows far
more richness than the low alcohol level would suggest. 90
2010 Palmina
Arneis Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Vivid yellow. Smoky
aromas and flavors of pear skin, peach pit and fresh herbs. Sappy
and broad on entry, then firmer in the
mid-palate, with good depth and chewy texture. Finishes broad,
smooth and long, with the herbal note echoing. This wine has the
heft to handle richer foods but also the vivacity to work with
lighter dishes. 90
2010 Palmina Malvasia Bianca Larner Vineyard
Santa Ynez Valley Light, bright gold. An explosively perfumed
bouquet evokes pit fruits, lavender, honeycomb and toasted grain,
with a strong
topnote of white pepper. Rich but lively, with impressive depth
to its nectarine, quince and lavender flavors. Finishes bright
and racy, with lingering florality and excellent persistence. 91
2010
Palmina Tocai Friulano Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Green-tinged
straw. High-pitched aromas of citrus fruits, cherry pit and minerals,
with a subtle floral quality in the background.
Tightly focused and light on its feet, with very good energy and
cut to its bitter pit fruit and orange zest flavors. Finishes dry
and precise, with very good length and resonating florality. 90
2009
Palmina Tocai Friulano Subida Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Bright gold. Bee pollen and pit fruit aromas
expand with air, picking up notes of anise and candied ginger. Broad
and juicy
on the palate, offering intense pear and peach flavors and notes
of honeysuckle and bitter herbs. Finishes on a spicy note, with
very good clarity and a touch of green tea. 91
2010 Palmina Dolcetto
Santa Barbara County Bright violet color. High-pitched aromas
of dark berries, minerals and fresh flowers, with a spicy overtone.
Juicy cherry
and cassis flavors show good poise and clarity, with juicy acidity
adding lift. The brisk, clean, persistent finish repeats the spicy
note. 89
2009 Palmina Barbera Santa Barbara County Bright
purple. Black and blue fruits on the highly fragrant nose. Broad
and sappy, with deep cherry and blueberry flavors complemented
by notes of candied violet and cracked pepper. Finishes with good
peppery bite and length, the cherry note repeating. 90
2009 Palmina
Lagrein Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Vivid purple. Exotically
perfumed scents of dark berry preserves, lavender and licorice,
with a slow-building note of black pepper.
Shows very good energy and focus, with strong bite to its bitter
cherry and mulberry flavors. Dusty tannins add grip to the long,
spice-accented finish. This intriguing wine will be very flexible
at the table. 91
2009 Palmina Alisos Vineyard Red Blend Santa
Barbara County (80% sangiovese and 20% merlot): Bright ruby.
Smoky cherry and red berries on the nose, with notes of rose, cured
meat and
cracked pepper adding complexity. Weighty cherry and raspberry
flavors show no rough edges and gain sweetness with air. Chewy
and expansive wine with very good finishing power and lingering
red fruit, floral and smoke qualities. This promising blend needs
some more bottle age. Steve Clifton told me that some of the sangiovese
here got the ripasso treatment. 90(+?)
2008 Palmina Sangiovese Undici
Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley (100% sangiovese): Deep ruby. Complex,
high-toned scents of dried cherry, botanical herbs, rose and Asian
spices, with a
smoky overtone. Bitter cherry and licorice flavors pick up sweetness
with air and show very good intensity and focus. The cherry and
herb notes repeat on the very long, sappy, penetrating finish.
Pretty wild stuff. 91
2008 Palmina Savoia Santa Barbara County (50%
nebbiolo and 25% each of barbera and syrah): Full red. Intensely
perfumed aromas of red berry preserves, rose oil and
star anise, with a hint of smokiness. Bright and precise on the
palate, with very good depth to its raspberry and cherry flavors.
The spicy note comes back on the impressively long, vibrant finish.
No excess fat here. 91
2007 Palmina Nebbiolo Santa Barbara County Bright
red. Cherry and rose aromas are complicated by notes of vanilla
and peppery spices. Lively red fruit and floral pastille
flavors are given spine by tangy acidity and pick up weight with
air. The cherry note resonates on the long, sappy, gently spicy
finish. 90
2006 Palmina Nebbiolo Stolpman Vineyard Santa
Ynez Valley Medium red. Dried cherry, redcurrant, pipe
tobacco and woodsmoke on the fragrant nose. Taut and spicy on entry,
with
firm-edged
red fruit and candied rose flavors and a touch of bitter herbs.
Sweeter on the finish, which clings with very good tenacity and
repeats the cherry note. 90
2006 Palmina Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard
Santa Maria Valley Deep red. High-pitched red fruit and floral
aromas are complicated by star anise, pipe tobacco and cracked
pepper. Bright, spicy and
precise, with excellent clarity to its redcurrant and cherry flavors.
Becomes sweeter with air and closes on alluring spicecake and floral
pastille notes, with impressive length. No rough edges here: this
drinks very well right now. 92
2006 Palmina Nebbiolo Honea Vineyard
Santa Ynez Valley Vivid red. Intense aromas of cherry pit, licorice
and violet become spicier with air. Juicy, incisive dark fruit
flavors boast
serious depth and focus, with a firm spine of acidity adding lift.
A sexy floral nuance carries through the very long, sappy finish.
Packs a serious punch but there's a lively quality here as well.
92
"one
of the finest Italian-varietal wines I have tasted in California"
Antonio Galloni has covered Italian wines for
the Wine
Advocate for years. In 2010, he came to California's Central
Coast to review the wines produced here. We are very happy that
he seemed to like Palmina wines.
I can’t think
of anyone who has done more to promote Italian varieties in California
than Steve Clifton with his Palmina label. I admit I was intrigued
with these offerings, and came away deeply impressed with most
of what I tasted.
The
2010 Pinot Grigio emphasizes textural richness and body over
strict varietal character. I especially like the
wine’s inner perfume and expressive bouquet.
The 2010 Tocai Friulano Honea Vineyard,
on the other hand, shows plenty of varietal character. It is
a pretty,
graceful wine laced with white peaches, flowers and mint. A long
finish rounds things out nicely. In an amusing, ironic twist, producers
in Italy can no longer use the name Tocai Friulano, while the successor
denomination Friulano isn’t recognized yet by the TTB!
The 2010 Malvasia Bianca Larner Vineyard is arguably
the most varietally true of the whites. Exotic passion fruit, mint
and peaches are some of the aromas and flavors that flow from this
gorgeous wine.
The 2010 Arneis Honea Vineyard was fermented
in equal parts of steel and oak. It emerges from the glass with
flowers, orange peel and juicy white peaches. The oak adds a nice
dimension of volume through to the finish.
The 2009 Subida Natural
Friulano Honea Vineyard is named after one of Friuli’s very finest restaurants (where Clifton was
married) and is inspired by the ‘orange’ wines that
are so dear to the heart of proprietor Josko Sirk. The Subida
is Tocai that spent 46 days on its skins in a wood vat and was
pressed
directly into barrel with no SO2. It possesses gorgeous layers
of perfumed fruit and striking textural richness. This is a jewel
of a wine.
The 2007 Nebbiolo is a blend of fruit sourced
from Sisquoc Vineyard planted with the Michet clone (60%) and from
Stolpman Vineyard planted with the Lampia clone (40%). It possesses
striking dark fruit and plenty of varietal character, but with
an extra degree of textural density from these Central Coast sites.
It is one of the finest Italian-varietal wines I have tasted in
California.
The 2006 Nebbiolo Honea Vineyard is grown on
similar limestone and sandy loam vein as Stolpman but planted with
Michet instead
of Lampia. Black fruit, menthol, tar, earth and licorice are
some of the notes that take shape in this decidedly powerful, virile
wine.
The 2006 Nebbiolo Sisquoc
Vineyard, from 100% Michet vines, is flat-out stunning. Sweet
red cherries, flowers and spices are some
of the notes that flow from this vibrant, beautifully delineated
wine. This shows fabulous Nebbiolo typicity and tons of style.
It is frankly an eye-opening wine that shows what Nebbiolo is
capable of in California. This is a dazzling effort from Steve
Clifton.
The 2006 Nebbiolo Stolpman Vineyard emerges from the glass with dark cherries, tobacco, licorice,
smoke, leather, and cocoa. It
spent 4 years in cask, which may have been a little on the long
side considering how forward some of the aromas and flavors are.
Today the Stolpman Vineyard comes across as a wine that needs
to be enjoyed sooner rather than later.
The 2008 Savoia is
50% Nebbiolo, 25% Barbera and 25% Syrah. It’s impossible
not to love this wine. Gorgeous, pure aromatics meld into a core
of
expressive, radiant red fruit,
all supported by soft, elegant tannins. This is another striking
effort.
“The Power of
Palmina”
Steve Clifton is an Italophile in a Francophile
world. The creator of Palmina Wines, Clifton discusses his career
with a humble ease that makes it seem as if he never shed a bead
of sweat along the way from producing 100 cases in the now-extinct
Wine Cask warehouse on Haley Street to today making 18,000 cases
of the most successful Italian-style wines on this side of the
world. He’s also remarkably casual about his decision to
focus on Italian varietals, which other winemakers would call crazy…
Touring and Tasting magazine’s
Editor Wendy VanDiver came to visit Santa Barbara County this past
autumn. Her first day was spent here in the Lompoc/Sta.
Rita Hills area, and she notes
“The first stop is the Lompoc
Wine Ghetto (tasting rooms are open Thursday through Sunday and
by appointment). Nearly one dozen excellent wineries make wine
in this industrial complex. You may hesitate, but don’t.
Wonderful wine awaits behind these doors and the owners are often
there, eager to greet you. I suggest you start at Palmina, where
the tasting room is an Enoteca, serving cheese, salami, and other
tidbits paired with the magnificent Italian wines.”
Read
the entire article here, and then come visit like Wendy did!
"Authentic
both in varietal character and terroir"
The
San Francisco Examiner recently took a quick look at the trend
toward domestically produced Italian wines, including Palmina. Click here to read the article.
Chrystal
and Steve Clifton have positioned their winery as one of the best,
if not the best, sources for Italianate
wines in
the U.S. On my latest visit, I was once again struck by the wines'
absence of excessive sweetness-and by their restraint, a quality
I miss in too many New World versions of Italian varieties. That
restraint is an essential part of the Cliftons' game plan, Steve
told me, "because we're obsessed with food, and the ability
of the best Italian wines to work alongside rather than against
food is a huge part of our attraction to them. Rich, heavy wines
are a distraction at the table and are better for sitting around
playing 'mine is bigger than yours.'" Josh Raynolds
2009 Tocai Friulano
Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Bright yellow.
Fresh, mineral-accented aromas of orange, dried pear and
white flowers. Fleshy but dry and focused, with dusty orchard
fruit flavors and slow-building sweetness. A late note of lemon
rind
lends a refreshingly bitter edge to the sappy, persistent finish.
Steve Clifton says that this is the ideal wine to serve with
that notorious wine-killer, asparagus, especially the white version.
89
2009 Arneis Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez
Valley Pale gold. Discreet but intriguingly nuanced
nose melds musky citrus zest
and floral
notes, herbs, dusty minerals and a wild saffron quality. Concentrated
and harmonious, with lovely lift and focus to its orange, lime
and herb flavors. Finishes with impressive energy and a touch
of iodine-y minerality. 90
2009 Malvasia Bianca Larner Vineyard
Santa Ynez Valley Vivid yellow. Exotic aromas
of mango and fresh pineapple, with
complicating
notes of dried flowers and herbs. Juicy and expansive but
well-focused, with good grip to spicy tropical fruits and a late
note of
honey. Plump and a touch warm on the finish, which repeats
the mango
note. 88
2009 Dolcetto Santa Barbara County Bright
ruby. Mineral-accented aromas of red berries and cherry, with complicating
herb
and floral qualities. Sappy and focused, offering bitter
red fruit
flavors
and a hint of anise. The mineral note returns strongly
on
the finish, which is taut, lively and very persistent.
This reminded
me a lot
of a serious cru Beaujolais for its tanginess and minerality.
90
2009 Barbera Santa Barbara County Bright
ruby. Musky redcurrant and cherry on the nose, with complicating
notes of herbs and
cocoa powder. Slightly bitter cherry pit and licorice
flavors are nicely
concentrated but come off somewhat strict. Picks up a
smoky note that carries through a chewy finish. This would be
good with
a piece of grilled lamb. 88
2007 Sangiovese Undici Santa
Ynez Valley Vivid ruby. An expansive, highly
perfumed bouquet displays cherry compote, sassafras, spicecake
and dried flowers.
Spicy and impressively
energetic, offering sweet red fruit and candied rose
flavors and a subtle herbal undertone. The finish is
sappy, focused
and alluringly
sweet, with excellent finishing lift and persistence.
This wine spent 30 months in neutral oak. 91
2008 Alisos Alisos
Vineyard Red Blend Santa Barbara County (80% sangiovese
and 20% merlot) Bright ruby. Sexy,
spice-accented
aromas of red
berries, dried flowers and underbrush. Then fresh,
plush and
silky, with impressive volume to its spicy red and
dark fruit flavors.
This seamless, high-pitched wine has good stuffing
and finishes sweet and long, with soft tannins and
no hard
edges. 90
2007 Savoia Santa Barbara County (50%
nebbiolo and 25% each of barbera and syrah) Ruby-red. Aromas
of cherry-cola,
bitter
chocolate, licorice, black pepper and herbs; showing
the syrah right now.
A firm, sappy midweight, with gently sweet dark
berry flavors enlivened by a tangy quality that runs through
the wine.
Pinot-like in its
vivacity, with good finishing clarity and impressive
persistence. 90
2006 Nebbiolo Santa Barbara County Medium
red, with an amber rim. Redcurrant, dried cherry and herbs on the
nose, with sexy
floral notes coming out with aeration. Smells
and tastes like
a high-altitude Piemonte wine, such as Carema,
with impressive clarity,
satiny texture and suave spiciness. The floral
quality carries through a long, sweet, tangy
finish. I really
like this wine's
lightness of touch and precision. 91
2005 Nebbiolo
Stolpman Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Light, bright
red. Musky, complex aromas of redcurrant,
rose and
earthy underbrush, with a lively mineral element
adding vivacity. Sweet and fine-grained but
tightly wound
today; very fresh
but in need
of some patience. There's good density and
a lot of tangy, mineral-laced red fruit here, but
this
will
be better
when it unwinds some.
90(+?)
2005 Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard Santa
Maria Valley Vivid red. Scents of red fruit,
dried flowers,
mint
and blood orange
on the
nose, plus a strong mineral quality. Taut,
gently sweet and chewy, with impressive concentration
and energy
and no excess
fat. Pure
red fruit flavors stain the palate and pick
up
a rose pastille quality with air. Very pretty
and precise,
with excellent
finishing cut and spicy length. This is made
entirely from the Michet
clone of nebbiolo. 92
2005 Nebbiolo Honea
Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Bright red. Fresh
strawberry and cherry
on the nose,
with complicating
notes
of potpourri and smoked meat. A lively
spine of minerality adds lift and precision to
red fruit
and floral flavors,
which pick
up a hint of baking spices with air. The
smoky quality carries through a very long,
juicy
and tightly focused
finish. Still
young and worthy of patience. This is all
Lampia clone, according to
Steve Clifton. 91
Saveur Magazine recently took a fresh look on what
is happening with California wines, stating “ In recent years,
a new era has been dawning in California: one of fascinating wines
that reflect the personality of the place while drawing inspiration
from afar.”
They recommended “69 California Wines to
Drink Now”, which included both our Arneis and Nebbiolo Santa
Barbara County
. We agree with their suggestion that “It's time to take
another sip of the Golden State's wines and savor its culture of
creativity.”
As I have written in
the past, no one in California (and probably in the New World)
is doing what Steve Clifton has managed to do working with Italian
varietals in selected micro-climates in the Santa Barbara area.
From the get-go, his dry, crisp, light to medium-bodied whites
were a revelation for California, and he continues to dial up
the quality of the Italian varietal reds, even managing to come
close
to conquering the hardest varietal of all for anyone outside
Northern Italy – Nebbiolo.
The 2009 Arneis has a nice, fresh nose of flowers,
grapefruit, and lemon blossom. This slightly spicy, elegant, medium-bodied
white is remarkably dry and fresh.
The 2009 Tocai Friulano from the Honea Vineyard
can easily pass for something from Northeast Italy. Wonderfully
crisp apple skin, pear, and citrus notes jump from the glass of
this steely, crisp, light-bodied wine, which would be the perfect
dry white to have at any sushi bar/restaurant in the country. Drink
it over the next year.
The stunning 2009 Malvasia Bianca Larner
Vineyard is just extraordinary. Notes of honeyed melons, along with hints
of white peach, spring flowers, and even a touch of mango represent
an authoritative perfume of wonderful intensity. In the mouth,
the same flavors are present in a medium-bodied, refreshing, and
stunningly delicious dry white.
Lagrein is a wine from Europe that I rarely like,
but in the hands of Steve Clifton, this inky/purple-colored 2008
Lagrein Honea Vineyard has turned out to be impressive. Steve Clifton
had 20 acres of Italian varietals planted for him at the Honea
Vineyard, and obviously included this rarity. The wines displays
graphite, licorice, blue and black fruits, and some minerality.
The fruit levels are impressive, and the wine dense and heady,
but it may be controversial because it is such an unusual varietal.
The 2005 Nebbiolo Santa Barbara is a reasonably
priced introduction to this complex and difficult-to-harness varietal.
Loads of acidity balance out a wine with notes of tobacco leaf,
licorice, rose petal, and sweet cherry. It is dark ruby and tastes
Italian.
The 2005 Nebbiolo Stolpman has an orange hue
to its medium ruby color and loads of spice box, licorice, and
berry fruit.
The 2005 Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard has the
classic tobacco leaf, licorice, truffle, red cherry, and kirsch
notes. It is medium to full-bodied, more powerful than its two
predecessors (14.5% alcohol) with good freshness, and a long,
heady finish.
While impressive, it is equaled by the 2005
Nebbiolo Honea Vineyard, which is also 14.5% alcohol. This wine
(made from the Lampia clone of Nebbiolo, whereas the Sisquoc
is made from the Michet clone) is outstanding, and probably the
best Nebbiolo made in California. Dark ruby, with a stunning
nose of asphalt, incense, tobacco leaf, licorice, kirsch, and
blacker fruits, the wine has terrific minerality, medium to full
body, and sweet strawberry and cherry flavors intermixed with
herbs, spice, and earth. It should drink well for 5-6 years.
Wall Street Journal
Gives Pinot Grigio Another Go
Jay
McInerney of the Wall Street Journal’s wine section recently
wrote on his rediscovery of Pinot Grigio. Titled “Giving
Pinot Grigio Another Go”, McInerney noted
“ flavor
abounded in the '09 Palmina, winemaker Steve Clifton's Cali-Itali
project.
Or is that Itali-Cali? Whichever—he grows Italian varietals
in Santa Barbara and his Pinot Grigio is really impressive, especially
at $20 a bottle. "I tasted some great Pinot Grigios in Friuli," Mr.
Clifton says, "and I wanted to make one that wasn't just a
water substitute. It has to be grown on a good site that expresses
minerality, but at its best it's a bridge between Sauvignon Blanc
and Chardonnay. Pinot Grigio hits the middle for seafood dishes
that are too delicate for Chardonnay.”
Read this very witty
and entertaining article by clicking
here. And thanks, Jay!
The Today Show
Our friend and colleague,
restaurateur and winemaker Joe Bastianich prepares three variations
on a simple, classic tomato sauce on the Today show and offers
wine pairing tips.
Palmina Barbera is paired with pizzas that Joe
made with pita bread, mozzarella and pomodoro sauce.
The passionate and exuberant Gary Vaynerchuk
(aka Gary Vee) included our Arneis
in
a tasting of "Interesting Italian Whites" on Episode
#835 of WineLibrary TV. "Fresh and creamy, fresh and creamy."
Palmina’s
wines were tasted recently by Josh Raynolds of Stephen Tanzer’s
International Wine Cellar.
2008 Arneis Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Pale
gold. Mineral-driven scents of lemon, lime and green apple, with
a lashing of baking spices adding complexity. Very dry, with
fresh orchard fruit flavors and strong mineral cut. The finish
is tangy and focused, with the citrus note repeating. 88
2007 Alisos,
Santa Barbara County Deep red. Spicy
red berries and cherry on the nose, with notes of cracked pepper
and mint adding
complexity. Juicy and finely etched, offering tangy red fruit
flavors and showing no tannins today. Impressively vibrant wine
with strong
finishing cut and an echo of peppery spices. This is delicious
now. 90
2007 Barbera Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Inky
ruby. Deep, youthfully brooding aromas of blackcurrant, cherry
pit, smoked meat and licorice. Taut on entry but gains flesh and
breadth in the middle palate and offers deep dark fruit flavors
without any excess weight. A peppery note gains strength on the
finish, which is nervy, focused and very long. This is a baby and
deserves a couple more years of patience. 90
2008 Palmina Botasea
Rosato di Palmina Santa Barbara County Orange-pink. Powerful scents of cherry,
dark berries, smoky herbs and dried
flowers. The dark fruit notes repeat on the palate, which offers
very good palate coverage and slow-mounting spiciness. A serious
rendition of pink wine that will be best served with spicy or grilled
foods rather than by itself. 88
2007 Dolcetto Cane Pruned Honea
Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Vivid ruby. Pungent, sharply focused
red and dark berry aromas and flavors are complemented by notes
of rose and cracked pepper
and an exotic note of cinnamon. Very spicy on the finish, which
delivers a solid punch of nervy raspberry and dark cherry flavors
and lingers impressively. This was fermented with 100% whole clusters,
according to Steve Clifton. 90
2008 Dolcetto Santa Barbara County Bright purple.
Fresh blackberry and flowers on the nose, with a hint of smoky
herbs adding complexity. Juicy and pure, offering
energetic dark berry flavors that turn spicier with air. A nervy,
fresh rendition of dolcetto that finishes with good tangy lift
and spicy persistence. 88
2007 Lagrein Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Dark
purple. Dark cherry, cassis and licorice aromas are complemented
by notes of black cardamom and herbs. Bitter dark fruit flavors
are sweetened by notes of toasty oak and candied flowers, with
good mineral snap and spine. A very interesting wine that combines
bitterness and sweetness and carries no excess fat. This will be
extremely flexible at the table. 90
2008 Malvasia Bianca Larner Vineyard
Santa Ynez Valley Light gold. A complex bouquet shows honeysuckle,
lemon zest and pear, plus a hint of talc. Dry and sharply focused,
offering tangy
citrus flavors and a deeper note of honeydew. With air this wine
turned more floral. Finishes firm, linear and nicely persistent.
89
2005 Nebbiolo Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Bright
medium red. Intriguingly perfumed scents of dried red berries and
cherry skin, with sexy spicecake and floral notes adding complexity.
Firm and mineral-driven, with spicy redcurrant and bitter cherry
flavors and a tangy mineral spine. The finish is spicy, focused
and very persistent. This grown-up, intriguingly complex wine is
still young and merits a few more years of patience. 91
2005 Nebbiolo
Santa Barbara County Deep red. Powerfully scented bouquet of cherry
preserve, dried rose, smoky herbs and exotic cola. Chewy in texture
and impressively
concentrated, offering sweet, medium-bodied red and dark berry
flavors and silky tannins. Gains strength on the finish, which
repeats the smoke and herb notes. I'd decant this for an hour or
so before serving it. 89
2004 Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard Santa Maria
Valley Medium red. Strikingly pungent nose displays
dried red berries and an intense floral quality. Rich and sappy
red berry flavors
stain the palate and are complicated by candied rose and anise.
Seamless and pure, with excellent finishing energy and a lingering
floral note. Very pretty, and balanced to age. This is all michet
clone, planted on clay. 92
2006 Sangiovese Undici Santa Ynez Valley 100%
sangiovese, mostly from the Honea vineyard. Bright red. Spicy cherry
on the nose, with notes of woodsmoke and dried rose adding
complexity. The smoky quality is quite pronounced on the palate,
which offers sweet cherry and red berry flavors and good tangy
lift. Repeats the cherry and smoke notes on the broad, long and
alluringly sweet finish. I don't find any tannins in this seamless,
ready-to-drink wine. 90
2008 Tocai Friulano Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez
Valley Bright gold. Intensely spicy and herbal on
the nose, projecting fresh lime and apple qualities; smells a lot
like a gruner veltliner.
Tangy and sharply focused, with tensile citrus and orchard fruit
flavors and a strong herbal note. Finishes dry and with good bite;
I suspect that some people may find this wine a bit strict. 88
2008
Tocai Friulano Subida Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley
100% tocai
friulano Light, bright orange color. Exotic, expressive aromas
of peach pit, citrus pith, spicecake and smoke. Almost sweet
on entry but firms up in the middle, offering powerful pit and
orchard fruit flavors and a strong mineral undertone. Leaves smoky
mineral and orange peel notes behind on the long, sappy finish.
This wine reminds me a lot of some wild bottlings from Radikon.
91
2008 Traminer Alisos Vineyard Santa Barbara County Pale
yellow. Aromas of fruit salad, honey, herbs and flowers, with a
subtle mineral undertone. Then supple and plump, with a
touch of sweetness to the peach and nectarine flavors. Finishes
with good spicy cut and a hint of talc. 88
Palmina goes from the “Wine Ghetto” to
the White House
What
might be the ultimate honor for a winery that is solely dedicated
to crafting wines from Italian varietal grapes grown in Santa Barbara
County? Having their wines included as a gift from President Obama
to Italy’s President Giorgio Napolitano at our President’s
first G8 summit might just top the list. And that is just what happened
last week for Chrystal and Steve Clifton’s Palmina winery.
"It's like the Dalai Lama"
Santa Barbara News Press correspondent Tyler Blue
recently spent a few hours with the Palmina crew, noting: The
Cliftons are champions of the Italian mentality whereby food and
wine are intertwined. "We never intended to just be a winery
and tasting room," Chrystal explains. "The process we
enjoy is educating and inspiring people to see how the connection
between food and wine happens between season and region."
Amongst all the varietals, Nebbiolo is Palmina's
ultimate muse. "It's like the Dalai Lama in the form of liquid,"
Chrystal gushes. Steve figures, "We have 17 other wines that
support our Nebbiolo habit." This challenging yet rewarding
varietal takes four years to make. The investment has been paying
off as Palmina has been the only American producer invited to present
at the Nebbiolo Symposium in Italy. Read the entire article
here.
Palmina and Nebbiolo
The
entire Palmina gang went to Sondrio, Italy for the Nebbiolo
Grapes Convegne Internazionale in March. Steve and Chrystal
presented several Palmina Nebbiolo wines:
"...an audience made up primarily of
Italian consumers is of course used to the ruby-garnet colors, floral
and fruity aromas, and dry, warm, velvety palate of the Valtellina
and Piedmont wines. The beautiful clarity of the ruby color, aromatic
complexity presenting not only the classic Nebbiolo combination
of tangy red fruit and floral bouquet but also earthy, spicy accents,
and consisent notes of red fruit and spices in the California Nebbiolos
were a new experience for many."
Saveur
Magazine came for a visit to “the Ghetto”, and
writer Georgia Freedman was a bit surprised! “When I arrived
on a bright fall day at the address Clifton had given me for Palmina
Wines, I was sure I'd come to the wrong place. After driving past
miles of steep vineyards and hilly grazing lands, I ended up at
an industrial park, gazing at rows of prefabricated gray-and-blue
steel warehouses. Palmina looked more like a place to buy office
carpet than a winery, but when I walked inside, it was clear I'd
come to the right place: workers were busily picking through freshly
delivered grapes, readying them to be loaded into a crushing machine.”
She also was able to taste Palmina’s wines, as well as a sampling
of those from other “ghettositas”. Read the article
here,
and be sure to click through to her tasting
notes too!
The
January issue of Gourmet Magazine was a “Special
Italian-American Issue”, with all sorts of fantastic recipes.
It also featured an article called “Rosso di California”,
with conversations with Chrystal about Palmina’s vision. Writer
James Rodewald finished the article with another of Chrystal’s
mantras “As I tasted….Chrystal Clifton’s words
rang in my ears: “Italian wines do not go with wine. They
go with food.” She’s right, these are not wines for
tasting. They’re wines for drinking with a meal.” Read
the entire excerpt here.
We
were thrilled to see that the San Francisco Chronicle recently
listed our 2006 Barbera from the Honea Vineyard as one of their
“Top 100 Wines of 2008”!
2006 Palmina Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez
Valley Barbera In Lompoc's wine ghetto, Steve and Chrystal Clifton have
committed themselves to Italian varietals like few have in California.
Honea is essentially their estate plot, and this latest Barbera
is as exotic as it is compelling. Fiery aromas of umeboshi plum,
cinnamon and violets share the stage with red currant, ripe cherry
and red fruits, with the variety's high-toned acidity providing
the momentum amid tons of rich fruit. Read the entire article here.
Robert
Parker had some kind things to say in the December 2008 Wine
Advocate:
Steve Clifton’s “Italian Stallion”
operation in southern California is the best of its kind in the
United States, and these wines seem to go from strength to strength.
His excellent whites are all stainless steel fermented and really
do capture much of the character that comes from the region most
commonly associated with these wines, northeastern Italy.
The 2007Pinot Grigio
Alisos exhibits notes of buttered apples intermixed with
hints of tropical fruit and a slice of minerality in its light to
medium-bodied flavors. This wine should be drunk over the next 12-16
months.
Even better is the 2007 Pinot Grigio
Honea Vineyard, which displays exuberant fruit, with notes
of orange blossom and lemon oil as well as hints of honeysuckle
and Granny Smith apple skins. This wine should be drunk over the
next 12-16 months.
The 2006 Arneis is fresh,
flowery, medium-bodied, and just delicious. This wine should be
drunk over the next 12-16 months.
The 2007 Tocai Friulano Honea Vineyard
offers notes of apple skin, lemon zest, spring flowers, and hints
of herbs and spice. The wine is dry and deliciously fresh and vibrant.
This wine should be drunk over the next 12-16 months.
The 2007 Traminer displays
“Christmas” spice, lychee, and honeyed notes, dry, crisp,
medium-bodied flavors, and surprising length.
Among the reds, the stars I found included
their 2006 Dolcetto, which displays plenty of dark
cherries, bitter chocolate and espresso roast, dense ruby purple
color, but loads of fruit. Best drunk in the first 3-4 years of
life.
The 2006 Barbera Zotovich Vineyard
has briery black cherry and berry fruit with hints of chocolate,
underbrush, and spice. Best drunk in the first 3-4 years of life.
The other top red was the blend of 50% Nebbiolo
and the rest equal parts Barbera and Sangiovese, the 2005
Savoia. This wine exhibits complex new saddle leather notes
intermixed with strawberry, black cherry, roasted herbs, and licorice.
It is deep, dark, medium to full-bodied, and just gorgeous. Best
drunk in the first 3-4 years of life.
Josh
Reynolds of Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
talked with Steve recently, and sampled out current wines.
"The methods here are moving as close as
possible to those of traditional Italian producers, Steve Clifton
told me. "But we are absolutely not trying to make imitations,"
he said. "We have our own unique terroir and fruit expression,
but I'm drawn to wines that are unadorned and pure, which is what
I find in the best old-school Italian wines." To that end Clifton
is using larger casks (botte, in Italian) to minimize oxidation
during barrel aging, and extending the time his nebbiolos spend
in barrel, "hopefully, to get finer tannins and more aromatic
complexity." This is certainly the most impressive set of nebbiolos
I've ever encountered outside of Italy, and finer than many from
inside it."
Wine
critic Dennis Schaefer recently tasted through a few of our wines
and noted:
“Mr. Clifton emphasizes that he's not trying
to mimic the Italian version of those grapes; rather, he's trying
to take those Italian grapes and reinterpret them, given the growing
conditions and vineyard sites of Santa Barbara County, which remind
him of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia grape-growing region of Italy.
While he truly respects Italian tradition, he doesn't go strictly
by the book. Instead, he makes the wines with a nod to how wine
is viewed in Italian culture, meaning every wine is made with food
in mind. Or as Mr. Clifton likes to put it, "Wine is an extension
of the plate."
Steve
and Chrystal hosted a Seminar & Tasting on Tocai Friulano
at the winery, comparing Italian wines from Friuli with several
different styles of the wine that we made from the 2007 harvest.
Wine Imbiber was there to take notes:
"After explaining the history of the
grape, Steve and Chrystal explained the striking similarities between
the geography and climate of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of
Italy and the Honea Vineyard in the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley
AVA in the Santa Barbara wine country. The Santa Barbara County
coastline juts in an east-west direction, unlike the coastal mountains
from Alaska to Chile. The unique positioning of the local mountains
and the valley flames the love-hate relationship between the cool
ocean breezes from the west and the warm desert winds from the east,
much as the cold northern weather from the Italian Alps and Dolomites
battles with the warm air from the Adriatic Sea to the south of
Friuli. This intermediate Santa Ynez microclimate offers a combination
of cool nights for acidic balance, warm days for grape growth and
a long growing season, ideal for Italian varietals."
The
April 2008 edition of "O" had a nice and appropriate mention
of Palmina. In the Food section, writer Celia Barbour outlines her
perfect picnic:
"In my fit but aimless 20's I hiked in
Europe's mountains, my backpack stocked with nutrition bars. At
every turn I encountered hale and jolly locals picnicking on salami
and triple-cream cheese. I decided then and there that pleasure
must be nutritious. Here are my favorite foods for springtime meanderings,
all now made in the USA."
She asked sommelier Heather Branch to recommend
wines for her perfect picnic. Their choice for a white? Palmina
Tocai Friulano, "a crisp, charming white."
Top
100 Wines of 2007
2006 Palmina Honea Vineyard Tocai Friulano
Steve Clifton, half of the team at Pinot powerhouse
Brewer-Clifton, keeps this Lompoc-based label devoted to Italian
varietals as a side project. This take on a native Friulian grape
effort, which comes from Clifton's equivalent of an all-Italian
varietal estate vineyard, outpaces many of its Italian counterparts.
Intense aromas of bitter almonds, white flowers and dense peach,
with a gripping finish. The lush texture will really blossom with
a bit of time - or decanting.
WINE
OF THE WEEK
2006 Palmina Alisos Vineyard Pinot Grigio
Earlier this year, we had none-too-kind words
for American Pinot Grigio. Would that we had tasted this specimen
from winemaker Steve Clifton, also of Brewer-Clifton. From a spot
in the Los Alamos Hills, he was getting an astounding 2 tons of
fruit per acre, low even by Napa Cab standards. That was "too
intense," so it's now closer to four. But still intense: With
compelling peach pit and citrus notes, and a vibrant mineral backbone,
this all stainless-steel aged wine has forceful, dense flavors that
stand in bold defiance against the monotony of its Grigionic counterparts.
He cooks! He surfs! He makes wine!
Wine Enthusiast Online
"Nine winemakers from Santa Barbara to Paso
Robles, who also happen to be dedicated surfers, converged at the
beach to talk wines and waves with Wine Enthusiast. “Both
surfing and winemaking have given me a relationship with nature,
to understand its cycles, seasonal changes, how the earth moves
and breathes,” said Steve Clifton of Palmina."
Wall Street Journal wine writers Dorothy
Gaiter and John Brecher recently wrote about the “hidden treasures”
that can be found on restaurants wine lists, calling their experience
“The Refosco Lesson”. Having enjoyed Refosco in their
younger years, they saw Palmina Mattia (55% Refosco, 30%
Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot) on a wine menu in a restaurant recently.
“We ordered it, of course, and it was outstanding, with lusty
earthiness and real vibrancy. We had never seen this wine before,
and there’s a good reason for that: The winery made only 280
cases and most went to restaurants. Only a small percentage found
its way to retailers.”
Read their thought on what to order in restaurants and the full
article here.
A
Recipe for Success
Jessica Forsyth met with Chrystal recently and
put the history of Palmina in the context of Italian-American history:
"...their winery in Santa Barbara County
is as Italian as an American winery can get." "Palmina
winery has come to be respected not only for the quality of its
wines, but also for the ambassadorial approach to promoting Italian
culture through wine."
Palmina "makes an Arneis, from the grape
variety native to Piedmont; Malvasia Bianca in the Friuli style;
three vineyard-designated Pinot Grigios; a Tocai Friulano; a Traminer;
a blend of Refosco, Cabernet Franc and Merlot he calls Mattia; two
Nebbiolos; two Barberas; a Sangiovese; a Dolcetto; a Savoia, which
is a blend of Nebbiolo, Syrah, and Barbera; a blend of Sangiovese
and Merlot he named Alisos, after the vineyard where he sources
the grapes; and a dessert wine called Santita made from Malvasia
Bianca raisins.
Why so many wines? Clifton smiles, chuckles,
then shrugs, saying that, obviously, he hasn't been following a
business plan.
"We're excitable," he says, referring
to the partnership between himself and his wife, Chrystal, who came
to work for him in 2000. Business turned personal and they were
married three years ago. "We find something we like and then
we've got to add it to the list," Clifton says. "We were
married in Friuli, so we've got to make Tocai Friulano. Weeding
wines out, making fewer varietals, um, we're not very successful
at that."
Robert
Parker recently reviewed our wines for the August edition of Wine
Advocate:
"Palmina is the remarkable operation
of Steve Clifton, who produces 10,000 cases of Italian-inspired
wines. Having done enough understudy/homework in Italy, he has met
the challenge of finding single vineyards in California's Central
Coast planted with Italian varietals. He is fashioning the finest
dry Italian-styled whites in the new world!"